Family Wealth

The Catskills area is another place that is definitely on the return list.  Lots of places to see, to hike, to camp. This trip is shaping up to be sort-of a survey of a bunch of different areas to see what would be worth a return trip with more time in just that area.  The Adirondacks is a definite return-to.  Likewise, the Catskills.  We considered taking another day here but we are due in Lake Wacamaw, North Carolina next Friday, and the way we travel, even that could be somewhat of a stretch.  So we started south.

The first stop (and, as it turns out, the only stop) today was the Vanderbilt Mansion in Hyde Park, New York.  This estate is now under the management of the National Park Service so it’s possible to get a tour of the mansion and walk the grounds for free, if you have a National Park Pass.  It was quite fascinating to learn about his family and how they managed (and mis-managed) their fortune.  This estate was built by the grandson of the original Cornelius Vanderbilt, who built his wealth in the transportation business: steamboats and ferries.

Someone close to the family captured the pattern of family wealth thusly:
The first generation creates wealth.
The second generation doubles it.
The third generation spends it.

Of the grandsons, only Frederick, who built this estate, bucked this trend.  All of the Frederick’s brothers and their families spent their inherited fortunes in opulent living during the gilded age, building lavish mansions, throwing expensive parties, and spending like there was no tomorrow.

Then the United States implemented a property tax.  And an inheritance tax.  And an income tax.  That along with the spending drained their wealth until there was nothing left.

Frederick continued to develop the businesses he inherited and so avoided the fate of his brothers.  However, the new taxes forced him to sell four of his other mansions, and he kept this one because it was his wife’s favorite.  When he died, his niece inherited it and she sold it to the National Park Service for a dollar because she didn’t want it and couldn’t sell it to anyone else.

Deb was reading about the families when we were driving south.  Also fascinating as there was a lot of dysfunction.

This place is on 700 acres of prime real estate on a bluff overlooking the Hudson River.  We also strolled the Italian gardens on the grounds.  A bit past peak flower season, especially for the roses, but nonetheless very pretty.

Definitely well worth seeing, if you get to that area.

We decided to overnight in the Delaware Gap National Recreation Area, around 3 hours southwest. Google Maps plotted the route through the outskirts of New York City, something I had no desire of attempting, particularly since we would be entering that area around the start of rush hour.  So we vectored off of I-87 on a minor road, heading west, leaving most of the traffic behind.

At one point, we drove through an area that looked exactly like the low muck land of Hudsonville.  One field even had rows of onions being harvested, and lots of other crops around here look like they could end up on a salad.  Deb looked it up and discovered that this area was settled by the Dutch, who drained the bogs and swamps to create some of the richest farmland in the country.  Leave it to the Dutch to recover land from water.  This area is deeded such that it cannot be developed.  Hudsonville could learn a thing or two.  A lot of prime muck land in Hudsonville is being eaten up by condo developments.

After many segments of minor roads, we arrived at the south end of Delaware Gap and descended to the river’s edge on the main road towards the campground.  The next 11 miles of road was probably some of the worst roads I have driven in a long time.  Wheel-eating potholes, patches upon patches; it became an obstacle course to avoid the potholes.  Good thing there was no traffic as I was using the entire road for this exercise.  I heard things rattling that I didn’t even know I had.

It was blessedly quiet when we finally shut it off in the nearly-empty campground along the Delaware River.  We got out the grill and grilled some salmon, had some corn that we picked up earlier today at a roadside stand, some rice pilaf, and a big slice of cantaloupe.  For having such a small galley kitchen, Deb does a great job of making a good meal.

Tomorrow we may try some kayaking on the Delaware River.